After covering all three EDC basic items (wallet, keychain, and watch), let us now turn our focus to EDC utility items. The first, and probably most popular, items within this category would be knives. Whenever you hear someone referring to an EDC knife, the image of a folding knife or pocket knife should be the one popping up in your head.
But in reality is not that simple, it’s merely the tip of the iceberg. From patterns, handle materials, and opening mechanisms, to blade shapes and grinds – there are so many aspects and features we must talk about. Hence, let me help you navigate through the vast and fascinating world of EDC knives.
Table of contents
- Knife anatomy
- Knife patterns
- Opening mechanisms
- Lock types
- Blade shapes
- Blade grinds
- Handle materials
- Useful tips
- Key takeaways
Knife anatomy
As you know, every single knife (whether is used for cooking, hunting, or as a weapon) is composed of two main parts. A blade, made of steel or ceramic, which is the sharp end used for cutting. And a handle, that can be made of a myriad of materials, which provides a way to properly grip the knife.
When talking about steel blades, they’re classified accordingly with the elements used in production (besides iron, of course). These classifications are carbon steels, alloy steels, high-strength low-alloy steels, stainless steels, tool steels and exotic steels (non steel). Additionally, knife steels are rated based on toughness, edge retention, and corrosion resistance.
The rating of these aspects will directly influence the intended use for a knife, as well as its price point – the higher the quality of the steel in a blade, the higher it will cost you. If you’d like to learn more about the most commonly used knife steels and their ratings, I’d strongly recommend reading this article.
However, in the case of EDC knives, it doesn´t end there. You also have a front side of the handle, which usually contains the opening and locking mechanisms, as well as the elements providing that nice-looking aesthetic factor to the knife (i.e., decorations, branding). The opposite side, or back, of the handle usually includes a pocket clip, a handle scale, and the hardware (e.g., removable screws).
There are other smaller elements such as chamfer, pivot, lanyard hole, milling, bevel or grind, which basically are part of the main construction or opening mechanism. We won’t expand on those here, but if you’re interested, I’d recommend visiting this site.
Knife patterns
Let’s take a look at the most common and traditional slip-joint knife configurations. These quite simply refer to the handle shape and number of blades contained in a knife. In the case of EDC knives, you’ll most frequently find single blade swayback, lockback, or Texas toothpick patterns. But let’s take a look at all of them, for learning’s sake.
Stockman
Used by ranchers; includes spey, clip point, and sheepsfoot blades.
Congress
Used by tobacco field workers; it has double sheepsfoot, coping, and pen blades.
Barlow
Popular in early 19th century; characteristic oval-shaped with one or two blades.
Canoe
Name comes from characteristic handle shape; it has two drop-point blades.
Whittler
Similar to the pen knife, but adds a coping blade. Used for wood whittling.
Trapper
Used for skinning hides; packs large clip and spey blades on the same side.
Texas toothpick
Known for a single, narrow blade plus two large bolsters in the handle.
Pen knife
Most common style of slip-joint knives; it has pen and drop-point blades.
Copperhead
Handle curves a bit towards the end; it has two versatile clip point blades.
Muskrat
Used for skinning small game; it has two blades, one at each end.
Swayback
Used to fix cotton looms; a unique slip-joint style, it has a wharncliffe blade.
Lockback
From late 1960’s, reduces finger-related accidents by locking back the blade.
Opening mechanisms
We’ll now review the most common opening mechanisms we can encounter out there today. Hopefully this will help you avoid not having a clue about how to work a knife next time someone hands you one out.
Flipper
Extended tang on the blade and sticking out of the handle, it opens with forefinger pressure.
Nail nick
Small cutout in the blade for a fingernail to catch on and swing into open position.
Button
Spring-loaded plunger button connected to the blade tang, keeps it open or closed.
Wave
Opener that catches on the pocket fabric when exiting it to pull the blade open.
Thumb stud
Type of lever attached to one or both (ambidextrous) sides of the blade.
Thumb disk
Thumb protrusion in disk form that is connected to the spine of the blade.
Thumb hole
A hole or other shape simply cut into the blade, it opens thanks to thumb pad pressure.
Lock types
Security-wise, no feature is more important than the locking mechanism. While a knife should be easy to open and close, we want to have a dependable lock that will keep the blade exactly where we want it to be. We don’t want that sharp blade getting anywhere close to our fingers, now do we?
Liner lock
The knife liner is tensioned inward, which keeps the blade closed with a detent ball, and open by securing the lock face.
Frame lock
Similar to a liner lock, but instead is cut from a titanium or stainless steel frame of the knife handle, really hard to open.
Button lock
Typical on automatic knives, or plunge lock, uses a cutout in the blade tang engaged with a spring-loaded button to open.
Back lock
A rocker arm that pivots on a center pin, when open it connects with a notch in the blade tang, tension keeps it in place.
Slip joint
A tensioned backspring presses against the blade to keep it closed, a nail nick is used to overcome tension and open.
Crossbar lock
Or axis lock, has a sliding lock connecting to a spring attached to the liner, which presses into a backstop to keep it open.
Compression lock
Similar to liner lock, a leaf spring is cut on the liner and engages a cutout in the blade tang, a detent ball and hole keep it closed.
Clasp lock
A light-duty mechanism that uses a pin on the blade tang, sliding into a lock hole in the rocker arm (clasp) to hold it open.
Friction folder
Oldest folding knife design, where the user grips the handle plus the extended tang, causing friction on the stop pin to open it.
Bolster lock
Popular on Italian stilettos, consists of a rocker arm against a backstop, a pivoting bolster releases the arm to close it.
Blade shapes
Every single blade shape out there has a rich and varied history. Primarily because they were created to cut in a different way and for many different uses. Getting to know, and try if possible, the various blade shapes, will help us to better understand their function. And, of course, choose the style that best suits us.
Bowie
A type of clip point, named after Jim Bowie, popularized by Davy Crockett and the Alamo, appears more aggressive than a simple clip.
Sheepsfoot
A near-blunt tip to avoid puncturing, found on knives aimed at first response or camping tasks, where cutting safely is needed.
Wharncliffe
Used for whittling and EDC tasks, has a long, piercing tip (similar to tanto), popular in tactical knives for maximum cutting performance.
Cleaver
Classic kitchen and butcher knife, not ideal for piercing but good for everyday tasks and chopping through tough materials.
Recurve
An ‘S’ curved shape provides a longer cutting edge, making it excellent for slicing or skinning, though sharpening is trickier.
Kukri
Originated in Nepal and used by its military, also found as machete-length variants, excels at chopping, clearing, and building.
Persian
Originated in Iran, also known as trailing point, used for skinning and butchering (though it was designed for penetrating armor).
Modified
When not possible to classify a blade shape, this is where the modified shape comes into place – usually a mix of other shapes.
Straight back
Typical on fixed blade knives, its curved belly and somewhat thin tip make it great for wood carving, piercing, and skinning.
Drop point
Used on hunting and EDC knives, just right for most tasks thanks to its strong tip and wide belly, popularized by Bob Loveless.
Tanto
Used as tactical or self defense knives, great for piercing and high-risk cutting tasks, rooted on Japanese Samurai swords.
Clip
Named after the crescent clip out of the blade spine, this point is thinner in the spine providing better piercing and withdrawal.
Spear point
A blade shape with a long cutting edge, differs from a drop point in its symmetry, and from a dagger blade as the point is not sharp.
Dagger
Found on tactical knives, designed specifically for piercing, as both top and bottom edges are sharp, making it similar to a sword.
Hawksbill
Originated as a mini sickle for agriculture tasks thanks to its fine, curved tip, highly popular on tactical and self defense knives.
Leaf shape
A strong tip and plenty of belly make it great for slicing, similar to a drop point, the uniform shape facilitates sharpening.
Blade grinds
When we talk about a blade grind (or primary grind) we’re referring to the shape of the blade cross section. Why is this important for us? Simply because it’s crucial in ascertaining the core function and performance of a knife. In other words, it helps us to understand why the various knife types cut so differently (i.e., kitchen knife vs. pocket knife). There’s also a secondary grind, most commonly known as the secondary bevel, which is basically the edge of the knife.
Flat
Neither hollow nor convex, it’s built to be a jack of all trades. Can be used for cutting fruit, whittling, and general EDC or kitchen tasks.
Scandi
Or Scandinavian, it takes up less than half the width of the blade. Can be used for wood carving and camp tasks.
Hollow
May have a deep or shallow concave. Can be used as a cutter, shaver, carver, whittler, and slicer.
Convex
Commonly found on axes and machetes, it has a more robust, thick edge. Used for chopping and splitting.
Compound
Basically the result of combining two grind types, and their strengths. Also known as double bevel.
Chisel
It has both a ground and a flat side, which is more typical in kitchen knives. Quite useful for woodworking.
Handle materials
If you think that the handle material of a pocket knife is all about aesthetics, I’m sorry to tell you that’s wrong. It also has an impact on the knife’s usability and comfort, not to mention maintenance. Therefore, getting to know the most common handle materials available in the market will help us choose the type we like best.
Carbon fiber
Lightweight and durable, used for many years as a luxury material in knives.
Titanium
45% lighter than steel but just as strong, more expensive to mill and machine.
Aluminum
33% lighter than steel but not as strong, a popular material at every price point.
Polymer
Durable and customizable plastic material, popular due to its low price point.
G10
Lightweight and durable mix of fiberglass and epoxy resin, provides superior grip.
Micarta
Durable and lightweight natural material made of fabric layers pressed together with resin.
Natural
Wood, bone, abalone, mother of pearl, leather, etc., can be used as inlays materials.
Steel
Strong, durable, easy to clean, highly popular material, despite being bulky and heavy.
Useful tips
Identify the use or need
Do you need a knife to simply open your online shopping boxes and packages? Or do you require something for more specific tasks related to, say for example, camping, handicraft, repair, cooking, or hunting? As they say, the devil is in the details. Getting a huge knife with a convex blade grind for the first use mentioned, it’s most likely going to be overkill. A small knife with a chisel blade grind (a.k.a. cutter knife) will be better suited for the job. Carefully determine what you need your knife (or knives) for, then you should be able to narrow down your options.
Be aware of maintenance
What good is a dull knife which can hardly cut anything? Or of a blade that requires all the strength you can muster to prop it closed or opened? Being conscious of the specific ways to properly maintain a knife is paramount. Everything from sharpening the blade, to removing residues, to oiling the opening and lock mechanisms. Bear in mind that different materials present on both the blade and the handle will require different ways of taking care of them.
Know where to buy
As with many other EDC items, you can buy pocket knives directly from their producers or through intermediaries. In the case of knives, you’ll also be able to easily find them through outdoors or military related shops and vendors. Some manufacturers offer a discount for your first purchase, provided you subscribe to their newsletter. Many will also have discounts on occasion to get rid of their older inventory. Both manufacturers and online retailers will advertise special sales and promotions on holidays like Father’s Day, Black Friday, and Christmas.
Key takeaways
Here are the key points you should have learned about knives:
- Knives come in different patterns that may include two or more blades (though a single one is more common in EDC knives).
- Multiple opening and locking mechanisms are employed by different brands, to make it safer to handle knives.
- Knives are manufactured with a myriad of blade shapes and grinds, which determine their usability or function.
- While most blades are made of metal or ceramic, knives handles can also be made of plastic, fabric, and natural materials.
I trust you’ll find this information helpful during your quest for that perfect knife. Stay tuned for future posts (check out our recent posts here). Should you have any questions, please leave a comment below or reach out to us. Until next time!